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Post by 3060blue on May 22, 2020 10:23:16 GMT -5
Yes, terrible gauges from my many years with many vessels with that brand! Still wondering if you sprayed some water on the "screeching" belts while running at idle, in neutral, and if so, did the screeching go away?? Maybe I missed it but how many hours on your engines? Glad you found the leaking bellows, have to wonder what it cost to have them, u joints, and pilot bearing replaced? Assume you boat was dry docked or did you have to have it pulled to do that? Belts weren't the things screeching. Since the outdrives were serviced, the only noise I have is exhaust. Started up the engines while it was up on blocks, let them warm up a bit, shifted in and out of gear - everything seems to be working as it should. Port engine has about 382 hours starboard engine 400 hours. Not sure why the big discrepancy, I may never know. I have seen them within a few hours of each other but 18 seems strange. Engines and outdrives are original to the boat according to the SNs. Boat was pulled for the winter, here in Michigan so it was already up on blocks. They did everything over the winter. Total cost was about $3750 of which was about $2k in labor and $175 was for one prop reconditioning. All genuine VP parts used and installed by a certified VP mechanic. |
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Post by 3060blue on May 22, 2020 10:29:46 GMT -5
From what I understand with Faria is that the gauges are guaranteed for life. I don't know how true that is but I had Faria Gauges on the 4460 and they worked flawlessly. Were always spot on as well which I was very happy to see after 1500 hours of use. The only issue I had with them is that I had stress cracks in the crystal lenses on pretty much ever gauge. You could see the crack looking straight on, but you could if you looked at the gauges from slightly above center line or below. All the stress cracks on ever gauge were horizontal. Very strange. Never had moisture in them though. I haven't reached out to Faria directly but on their website they say a 36-month warranty for free repair, after that there are repair fees. Plus I don't know if that was just for gauges purchased aftermarket - gauges installed on a boat might only come with the warranty provided by Regal. Even so - to repair one tach alone is $125 fariabeede.com/2-pages/warranty.phpSo I just purchased an entire set for $199 (x2) and then added on a couple that were missing from the set. I'll take some before and after photos. |
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Post by gofast24 on May 22, 2020 10:42:01 GMT -5
our hour meters are 11 hours off from one another with approx. 950 hours on both engines. Hour meters are perfectly accurate including the Faria gauges! Dont worry too much about it.
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Post by 3060blue on May 31, 2020 11:15:41 GMT -5
2.) Starboard tachometer is all over the place but responds to smacking it; other gauges have similar issues. Port temp reading very low, starboard oil pressure reading high; replacing the entire gauge set in the spring. Replaced the gauge set on Saturday. The new gauges are very clean and - operate properly! I think I will replace the temp and oil pressure sending units just so I can be sure everything is reading as it should. The temp and oil pressure are still a bit wonky. Top attachment is night, middle attachment is the new gauge set, bottom is the before. I also noticed that the trim sensors are off, since the outdrives were removed and placed back. Is that something that I can adjust with the boat in the water or is that something related to how they reattached the outdrives? |
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 2, 2020 9:45:13 GMT -5
DC volts on both old and new gauges are reading low (12 VDC)? A fully charged 12VDC wet or AGM battery should show 12.8 VDC if fully charged or did you take the pictures with the ignition off on both engines?
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Post by 3060blue on Jun 2, 2020 17:42:47 GMT -5
DC volts on both old and new gauges are reading low (12 VDC)? A fully charged 12VDC wet or AGM battery should show 12.8 VDC if fully charged or did you take the pictures with the ignition off on both engines? Hmm, I suppose so. They are brand new AGM batteries. Been on a battery charger for over a week. The new gauge pic was taken with ignition on, but engines off. They seem to crank the engines quickly / without any issue. |
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 3, 2020 9:01:32 GMT -5
OK, with ignition on and engines not running the voltmeter's are reading battery load (voltage) with all engine electrical systems (and fuel pump)loads on but engine alternators not running. What do you get for a reading when engines just after started and running?
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Post by tc33obx on Jun 8, 2020 8:39:16 GMT -5
Did you replace all of the wires from the batteries to the gauges? I'm not an expert in electricity but I'm thinking you could have some voltage loss to the meters if you have old wiring that isn't carrying all of the volts. On most of my boats when running the engines and alternators I get a 13.5 or so reading. Anything below 12 volts says the battery is dead, most batteries on their own (without the alternators or chargers running should reach something between 12 and 12.9 volts.
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 8, 2020 10:14:56 GMT -5
Voltmeter readings shown in picture way too low if engines actually running!To check further, with engines off, check battery voltage at the actual battery terminals with a multi meter (12 VDC scale) , record reading and advise. Dont know if you shoud be doing this but with both engines running again just a little above idle (1000 RPM's) measure VDC at battery terminals and advise, if you not comfortable doing this dont do it, Get a mechanic to check voltage with engines off and running at battery terminals!. When we get this info we will can go beyond this simple test for next steps..
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 8, 2020 10:20:02 GMT -5
PS:
Dont believe both alternator's are bad so maybe gauges are bad? Dont think both alternators are bad at the same time so next step would be measure voltage at both helm voltmeters terminals with a accurate multi meter and advise.?
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Post by 3060blue on Jul 9, 2020 11:43:53 GMT -5
Had a mechanic go out and check, here was the report:
"Both alternators putting out 14.2v while running. Gauges are OK. Experiencing normal voltage drop from power wire to gauge as the gauges are wired to read voltage at ignition not a remote wire to alternator like a car."
I've had the boat out on more than one occasion with no apparent issues with charging system or otherwise. Engines always start right up and fast without hesitation.
He said everything is operating normally and he would not be concerned other than fixing a cosmetic issue at this point so long as the gauges stay where they normally are. Thoughts?
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Post by sabailao on Dec 23, 2021 19:03:23 GMT -5
Bought our boat end of August 2019. Here's my "little issues" list so far  : 1.) Had a problem with the ProMariner ProSafe ground fault monitor; replaced the entire system with a new version from ProMariner
. The original one, according to them, actually can fail and create a ground fault!
2.) Starboard tachometer is all over the place but responds to smacking it; other gauges have similar issues. Port temp reading very low, starboard oil pressure reading high; replacing the entire gauge set in the spring.
3.) Window leak on port side (as noted in another thread). Will attack in the spring.
4.) Windlass switch on the cockpit panel does nothing. The foot controls on the bow work, hoping it is just the switch that is bad.
5.) Original Raymarine RAY54 had a very frayed cord that would just disintegrate more each time I picked up the mic. Contacted Raymarine, this has not been manufactured in over 10 years so they won't repair. Option through them was to get a new one at a "significant discount" which ended up being 3x as much as a new Standard Horizon model. Only downside is, there is a 1/2" gap underneath the radio. This winter will have a black acrylic panel laser etched to cover the hole a bit better. I will post some pics of the final product next year.
6.) Camper canvas is too small/has shrunk. Trying to zip it all up was just not happening, even after being out in the sun for a while. At some point the radar arch must have been replaced too, because the snaps are not all there to affix the top! I believe it is the original, it's Taylor Made and the isinglass is crystal clear but the panels are just way too small - they at least need new zippers. Will likely have the entire canvas replaced next year.
7.) The bilge appears to be gathering more water than I think it should; often I will step on the swim platform from the dock, and the bilge pump will run for ~10 seconds or so. This can happen a few times a day, so it is taking on water from somewhere. Need to try and figure this one out...
8.) The boat lists a bit to the starboard side (it's noticeable) when docked and nobody is onboard. Unsure on why that is happening. Is that normal? I don't have any cargo noticeably on one side.
9.) The original Kenwood radio loses the display as soon as you touch it. I would like to replace this with a Fusion system, but I am not sure I can use the same wires for the Aeware remote for the Fusion version. I am also not sure if I can run a new line over to the radio somehow if I can't reuse the same wires. Something again to look at in the spring.
10.) When hauling out, the port outdrive decided to "screech" when shifting back to neutral; placing it in forward or reverse was normal. Soon as I would go back into neutral, a loud screech/bell type sound is heard again. Since it was going out, has not been addressed yet. The mechanic will be pulling both outdrives towards the end of November and going through them completely. Anyone else had this issue? Of course it was fine up until that point.
It's not all bad. The rest of the boat is great!  For now...
2.) I've got a 2005 3560, So I'm guessing not too dissimilar and my gauges were/are horrible. Another option is to bypass the unreliable analog gauges all together. What I did was to install engine gateways that connect directly to the engines via the diagnostic plug. That feeds directly into my new NMEA 2000 backbone network and then I can display the data on my MFD (or other device). Data is much more accurate, and depending on your engines and the selected gateway, you may find you have access to a lot more data. In my case, other than looking to bypass the bad analog gauges, I was looking to add something most boats of our vintage lack, fuel flow data. Sure enough, that data is available via the gateway and easily displayed on my MFD now. My project was pretty involved as I replaced most all of the electronics and installed the NMEA 2000 backbone which was required for all the equipment I replaced or added new. The gateways I installed were the Yacht Devices YDEG-04. I also added their wi-fi gateway which has very nice web gauges. So now I just use the new Axiom MFD for chart and radar and use my 10" tablet to display engine data (way, way cheaper than two MFD's). I plan to write up the whole project in the coming week for anyone here that is interested, but attached is the overview of what I did. Now my project was much pretty involved and more costly, but to just do the engine gateways and basic NMEA 2000 install wouldn't be too bad. I would say in $700-900 ballpark. 5.) If you're game, you could try and just replace the cord itself. Disassemble mic and radio and rewire. Example here on eBay of a replacement cord. Just another thought. I'm under contract to buy a 3760 and have been wondering about upgrading the Raymarine C80. I came across the Volvo Penta Easy Connect interface kit ($400 each, 1 for each engine) which works with the 2007 8.1 GI engines and then you download the app and connect via bluetooth. This kit also converts the J1939 data to NMEA 2000 data so I can then connect it to a MFD in the future. You're set up seems to accomplish the same thing in a different manner. Did you ever look at the Easy Connect kit? It seems to be an easier install (but I'm not that familiar with this topic). I'm just looking for a simpler way to deal with some of the gauges which aren't working as well as looking to upgrade to a MFD. |
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Post by grandpaw on Jan 11, 2022 7:19:17 GMT -5
BLUE - Did you ever find out why boat is listing too starboard ?
responded while back ( had same )
Mechanical issues others addressed , but nobody responded regarding leaning too starboard when nobody aboard
Boat tied too dock , stern facing me walking too boat , clearly leaning , nobody aboard , Bilge dry WHY, drove me crazy
On the 2860 I feel it was a manufacture weight distribution issue , Bathroom room enclosed fiberglass , cabinets, galley , 2 batteries hot water tank , waste tank all starboard side lot more weight then the refigerator gen set a/c on port side
Went too a steel yard . They had a 200 lb flat piece steel plate, installed in engine room next too gen set , Boat was now level
Sold my Regal 8 months ago , Just started the search for next boat ,
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 17, 2022 10:42:28 GMT -5
BLUE - Did you ever find out why boat is listing too starboard ? responded while back ( had same ) Mechanical issues others addressed , but nobody responded regarding leaning too starboard when nobody aboard Boat tied too dock , stern facing me walking too boat , clearly leaning , nobody aboard , Bilge dry WHY, drove me crazy On the 2860 I feel it was a manufacture weight distribution issue , Bathroom room enclosed fiberglass , cabinets, galley , 2 batteries hot water tank , waste tank all starboard side lot more weight then the refigerator gen set a/c on port side Went too a steel yard . They had a 200 lb flat piece steel plate, installed in engine room next too gen set , Boat was now level Sold my Regal 8 months ago , Just started the search for next boat , What was fuel level in both tanks? Cant believe adding 200 lbs. of steel to engine room good idea and then selling boat that way? |
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For now...