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Post by dpil222 on Nov 22, 2019 18:00:59 GMT -5
Dave, just checking, did you check for compressor in the storage compartment under cockpit sink. Mine is mounted to starboard wall in this compartment.
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Post by gofast24 on Nov 23, 2019 11:40:48 GMT -5
Regards my previous comment about swim platform and engine hatch being 'solid'...I meant that they are not soft with moisture. Do believe they are cored. Just finished pulling the Nova Kool combination freezer/fridge in main salon to clean the condenser, only to discover it is the 'maintenance free' type with a vertically mounted grill style condenser on the back...no fins to plug with dust! * Does anyone have a suggestion re cockpit propane BBQ with no top to hold heat in. * Still trying to find the air horn pump, and adjust aft cabin sliding doors. * Gofast, how do I install a 'salutation' re my boat/engine combo as you have? David 2006 Regal 4460 Volvo TAMD 75 Diesels You do have a "salutation" in your above post = David 2006 Regal 4460 Volvo TAMD 75 Diesels Dont know how you got it there but I have seen some of my posts not include my salutation in them also? Anly thing that would help would be location/salt/fresh water but what you have is is pretty good! Also, thanks for comments about swim platform/engine hatch, I also am not sure engine hatch being fully solid but do know swim platform is balsa wood cored as w mounted a propane grill base to it last year, and yes, it does have a wood core. Used a lot of 3M 5200 sealant/caulk on the SS screws/bolts/ washers thru holes to prevent moisture/water getting into the wood core.
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Post by goldenarch on Jan 6, 2020 10:08:59 GMT -5
Hi All, 1. The air-horn compressor is not in the cockpit storage locker under the sink. This locker does have the Fusion MS-AV600 radio and several Raytheon 'boxes' and lots of wiring. I will try to trace the wiring from the hardtop to locate the compressor, but as you fellow owners know, tracing wiring is not an easy task!
2. As I continue to work through my squawk list...the tachs are intermittent, sometimes requiring a tap on the gauge to get a reading or settle them down. I have read where this may be due to 'grounding issues'. Any comments/ tips??
2. There is a Sirius XM antenna on the hardtop, but not connected to the Fusion cockpit radio (which is a replacement from the OEM radio). What 'option' do I need to get XM? I know how to activate with the XM code, but need to know what attachment is required.
Thanks again guys.
David 2006 4460 Volvo TAMD 75 Diesels Charlottetown P.E.I.
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 6, 2020 11:07:35 GMT -5
David, comment on the air horn compressor (we dont have one, ours is just a simple electric horn) and regarding tachometers we have the illustrious "FARIA" tap (give them a good smack with your hand) type Tach's.This means we have to smack the gauges to get a "close" to approximate reading from them (just the tach's).Did some calibration checks a few years ago using the OBD2-M port on each engine, Faria's were about +/- 100 RPM off from digital readout and again varied with each "smack". I Don't really rely on them for accurate RPM reading just know when both throttles are at WOT the engines are both at approx. 4100 RPM's and less than WOT can hear the resonance (droning) between both engines to determine if both are at approximately the same RPM. Admin most likely know what droning is as on a twin engine aircraft is is fairly easy to hear if both engine are at the same RPM (jet or recip)? Admin? Forgot to comment on the third item, Sirius XM radio = Son's cell phones have Pandora, Apple Air Play,Prime music and some other service so we just connect to one of those services via cell phone and the phone streams music directly to the Fusion head unit via Bluetooth, no problems as on our lake we cant go much more than 25 miles from dock and have full signal strength service everywhere. I had Sirius XM on my car about 10 years ago but really dont need to pay for it with all the other music streaming available today? I am thinkin with all the streaming services available on smart phones Sirius XM may be a thing of the past? Good luck and enjoy your mild winter as we have here in GA>
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Post by goldenarch on Jan 17, 2020 11:59:08 GMT -5
gofast, you are correct again, I will use Apple music through my phone. I am anticipating a change of 'house batteries'. The existing battery is a Deka 908D, 1700 CCA and 130lb. The obvious replacement might be a Deka 8A4D AGM, 1800 CCA. Both are exactly the same size, and as you will note the AGM is slightly higher rated, and heavier at 161 lbs. The challenge will be getting the old out and new in as the house battery is on the port side inside the Volvo diesel...a very awkward lift.
David 2006 4460 Volvo TAMD 75 Diesels Charlottetown P.E.I.
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 18, 2020 11:17:42 GMT -5
David, thanks for your great salutation, wish everyone would have the same! Yes, go with BCI Group AGM battery! Dont worry too much about the CCA rating as the house battery doesn't crank the engines, more important is the duty cycle, service life (charge / discharge cycles) and amp-hours as to how long you can run on house battery at sea when not on shore power or gen set. When we purchased vessel in 2014 the group lead acid (flooded) house battery was kaput. About a inch (2.5 CM) of electrolyte (acid) had boiled out of the battey and into the plastic battery box! Having two strong sons (37 and 39 years old) we managed to get it out of the engine room without spilling any acid. Purchased a group AGM from NAPA on sale ($569 US) and installed it. So, bottom line, after over 5 years the AGM is doing fine. Suggest you install a Blue Seas OLED digital voltmeter (It is 2" typical diameter gauge, about $35 on Amazon) in the dash to accurately monitor the "house battery voltage. The parameters for prolonging battery life for a AGM (open circuit voltage vs. state of charge) is as follows= 100% charge=12.8 VDC, 75% charge= 12.60VDC, 50% charge = 12.3VDC, 25% charge = 12.0 VDC. For maximum battery life we do not let the voltage get below 12.3 VDC (50% charge)at sea. If it does we either start the gen set or turn the stupid audio system down to a whisper. Note= The state of charge vs battery voltage is base on the battery not having any load or being charged for 24 hours. I just look at the voltmeter and if below 12.3 VDC I consider it time to remove load or recharge, cant wait 24 hours to do it exactly, Good luck and let us know how you proceed! PS: I also replaced both engine starting batteries and the gen set battery with equivalent Group 34 AGM batteries, they are also fine after 5 years.
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Post by goldenarch on Feb 23, 2020 8:16:40 GMT -5
Hey Guys, I am continuing to work my way through some repairs/improvements on my 4460, and appreciate the help from all of you. * On the 'improvement' plan I am going to insulate the underside of my engine hatch with 1.25" thick 'Sundown' insulation. * Found cabinet locking hardware on Boat Outfitters site. * Continuing to search for the elusive horn compressor. * Plan on replacing 'house battery'. Current battery is a Deca 908D, to be replaced with a AGM sealed battery. Need to remove left engine exhaust pipe to get at the house battery...poor planning by Regal. * Has anyone a comment on their propane BBQ. Our OEM Force 10 BBQ is difficult to cook with as there is no way to contain the heat (no cover). The BBQ hinged cover cannot be used as it sits too close to the food and grill. Also, Force 10 has gone out of business! * Any suggestions regards tightening rudder post packing...very hard to access.
Thanks again all.
David
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Post by gofast24 on Feb 23, 2020 10:12:32 GMT -5
David, on your 2006 you should of had "dripless" rudder p0st packings, our 2001 does. They typically dont need tightening as far as I know, maybe spend a few $ with a marine mechanic to check as to what you actually have? If you can take a picture and post it here. If not "Drip less " usually just two bolts that will compress the packing glands and stop the leak. Just dont over tighten them!Turn bolts approx. 1/4 turn tight (CW) and watch to see if that stops the small leak! If it doesnt you may need to replace the packing glands/seals which will be a little more involved.Good luck and let us know what you find!
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Post by dpil222 on Mar 7, 2020 17:22:28 GMT -5
David, just saw this post. I hope I’m not too late but no need to remove exhaust when changing battery. Remove the four screws that hold down the starboard deck and you can lift battery out with rope tied to battery handles.
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Post by gofast24 on Mar 8, 2020 10:19:51 GMT -5
David, just saw this post. I hope I’m not too late but no need to remove exhaust when changing battery. Remove the four screws that hold down the starboard deck and you can lift battery out with rope tied to battery handles. dpil222,Thanks for your response and welcome aboard, wondering if you have the same model,year etc, as you don't indicate what vessel you have? Admin, is it possible to get new members to indicate what they have prior to joining the forum? I have been asking this for a year or so? Any one else believe this would help in accurately responding to new posts?
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Post by tc33obx on Mar 10, 2020 12:32:34 GMT -5
Dpil222, on my 2006 4460 the compressor for the horn was in the same place mentioned (in the cabinet under the cockpit sink behind the stereo). Note I had trouble with the horn as well and did two things to fix it. One was to make sure the compressor line was cleared out from water build up which can happen when running in the rain depending on how your horns are setup on the hard top. the other was to clean the terminals on the compressor since they had become corroded over the years. After doing both of them, the horn worked great.
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Post by goldenarch on Apr 10, 2020 8:49:31 GMT -5
Thanks again to all. As mentioned, there is no horn compressor in the cabinet under cockpit sink. * The cabin sliding door lock/latch was broken om my 4460. Finally found it at BOAT OUTFITTERS. There are two sizes, ours is the 5.66" x 2.87" model, $110. * Still looking for replacement salon cabinet door latches. The original latches are breaking, very poor quality. Any suggestions?? * There is no easy way to get to the 'House Battery'. It is located aft of the hot water heater, under the port engine exhaust which will have to be removed...not an easy job! Very poor planning by Regal. * I plan on ordering new 'replacement switch covers' from 'newmarine.com'. They are $4-7
Has anyone installed the 'Bennett Electronic Indicator Control Kit',P/N 6800502 ($570.) to upgrade Bennett trim tabs?
Hopefully there will be a 2020 boating season post Covid 19. All the best guys,
David
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Post by tc33obx on Apr 10, 2020 8:58:03 GMT -5
Golden Arch
Hi, on my 2006 4460 I didn't install the Bennet Trim Indicator Control, but I did install the Bennet Auto Trim Tabs. And to me that upgrade is a much better one than just installing the indicator switch. I think Bennet has now combined the indicator switch you are referring to with the AutoTrim upgrade so you can get both for less than $400. What I like about the Auto Trim capability is that you just set it and forget it. The boat is always level and trimmed properly. The only time I had to change It, was if it was seriously rough out and I wanted to push the bow down a little more to stop the slapping on the hull. I think the new Bennet system allows multiple settings to be memorized so even changing the tabs for rough water is as simple as selecting one of your favorite settings.
I found that upgrade to be great for the IPS 4460 since my boat did tend to roll easily with people moving around the boat.
I think I mentioned this in a previous post, but I even had Auto Trim added to my new Regal although that is a completely different system since Bennet tabs aren't used on the new boat.
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Post by tc33obx on Apr 10, 2020 8:59:29 GMT -5
I should also note the install was pretty easy overall. Just some wiring under the helm and some additional cabling at the stern bulkhead where the trim control located.
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Post by gofast24 on Apr 10, 2020 10:47:34 GMT -5
My thoughts on Trim Tabs = Ours are manual, two switches , one for each tab, up/down. REsults of tabs up/down = Tabs fully up, 30 knots at WOT, tabs down 26/27 knots. From experience use tabs full down to get on plane(for what it's worth on a boat this size, not really a planing effect) , the tabs full up to cruise at around 22/24 knots. The tabs down just reduce the vessel speed and require more HP (more fuel consumption) to get to the same place in the sme time. Can imagine if in heavy seas (and not inland fresh water lake as we are) pushing the bow down does improve the ride?
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