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Post by jasonrwc on May 4, 2020 20:37:38 GMT -5
Curious what is a "normal" range of coolant temperature. I'm on the west coast in the SF bay with twin Volvo D2 Diesel engines in a 35' sport coupe. I'm asking because
I got a coolant temperature warning the other day. I ran through the required checks that is the operating manual and all seems fine but I do not know what is the expected
"normal" operating range.
Thanks!
Jason
'14 35 Sport Coupe
Redwood City, CA
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Post by gofast24 on May 5, 2020 10:50:02 GMT -5
You got a warning or shutdown? Normally marine vessels are not allowed to have shutdowns by USCG etc. rules( you dont want engine to shut down while docking, crash into pier or another vessel!).Did you determine the coolant temperature on the dash coolant temperature gage when this happened or just hear/see the warning? Typical marine engines coolant temp is around 180F as sea water cooled vs car with air to water radiator but dont know what the spec's are on your engines. Did you check your coolant over flow /surge tank for coolant level after it happened? Possible you could be low on coolant? Did your second engine have a similar problem? When di the warning happen, at sea at full load or idling into dock/marina ?
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Post by jasonrwc on May 5, 2020 12:05:03 GMT -5
It was quite odd actually. We had the boat out all day and were coming back to the harbor in RedWood City from the SF area at a an average speed of about 24MPH for about 45 minutes. When I got to the red/green entrance buoys to the channel i quickly throttled down then it happened. Both engines showed a high coolant temperature fault and the engines did shut down. I kept everything off for about 10 seconds then restarted and was able to get back to the harbor & my slip in limp mode. I didn't have any time to check the coolant at the time of the issue because winds were pushing me into the shallow shoal area. The next day I did all the checks save the impeller. I did empty out some gunk in the seawater baskets but that didn't seem enough. I let the engines run yesterday while docked until the temperature stabilized at about 150 deg. I need to go back and double check the coolant levels however.
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Post by gofast24 on May 7, 2020 10:10:52 GMT -5
Both engines shouldn't shut down at the same time unless you actually run out of fuel or both engines seized at the same time due to loss of oil pressure and pistons seized in both engines(or ignition system failed, etc.) ! Think about pulling into dock or getting close to another vessel and engines shut down! If both engines shut down at the same time you need to have a VP certified marine mechanic check OBDM port to computer to see what the ECM shows as to the cause of shutdown (fault codes)! Also, dont ever recommend a full slow down from WOT to idle. Slowly reduce throttle from WOT to idle, i.e. 30 seconds/ one minute or so. When you immediately slow down from WOT to idle you are leaving a lot of heat in the engines cooing system which can lead to a high jacket water temp alarm (not shut down). Let us know what you find out!
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Post by gofast24 on May 9, 2020 10:41:54 GMT -5
Both engines shouldn't shut down at the same time unless you actually run out of fuel or both engines seized at the same time due to loss of oil pressure and pistons seized in both engines(or ignition system failed, etc.) ! Think about pulling into dock or getting close to another vessel and engines shut down! If both engines shut down at the same time you need to have a VP certified marine mechanic check OBDM port to computer to see what the ECM shows as to the cause of shutdown (fault codes)! Also, dont ever recommend a full slow down from WOT to idle. Slowly reduce throttle from WOT to idle, i.e. 30 seconds/ one minute or so. When you immediately slow down from WOT to idle you are leaving a lot of heat in the engines cooing system which can lead to a high jacket water temp alarm (not shut down). Let us know what you find out! Again engines should never shut down! You need to get a certified VP mechanic to check this out, something seriously wrong with most likely electrical system or ECU's causing a full engine shut down! Mechanic should connect a code reader to your engines and determine cause before you sail again! |
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Post by helovector on Dec 11, 2020 15:19:57 GMT -5
For purpose of furthering discussion on high engine temperatures:
When single engine temperatures vary:
Occasionally one of the D-3 engine's raw water cooling hoses get pinched with the plastic cable ties that are used by "well-intention" Regal engine installers thinking the near-by hydraulic hose connection needs securing. The the location of hose is found by its part number 22371852.
Of course there is the impeller and raw water strainers that need inspection.
And if the vessel is kept wet in salt water there's a possibility of the engines' heat exchanges have become corroded with barnacles.
Another issue on Volvo Penta D-3's with either EVC or joy stick installed ... should one engine quit and not be restarted it needs to trimmed up all the way so that it is NOT struck by the other operating drive.
BTW Volvo D-3 as all diesel engines need a longer warm up time even in the sub tropical temps. At 3200 RPM cruise the D-3's reads in the mid to upper 180's F, WOT 4200 RPM mid to Upper 190F.
EOM
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Post by gofast24 on Dec 12, 2020 10:50:30 GMT -5
190 high! OP should have let us know by now what was the cause? 7 months since original post and no response as to problem/solution? It is nt much help to any of use to ask questions, and then never hear if any advice given was checked /solution found, cause of problem etc. We all learn by giving suggestions, advice and find out it was correct or not. Never too old / experienced to stopo learning?
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