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Post by omarf4 on Jun 15, 2020 13:10:54 GMT -5
I tested my theory yesterday that the back pressure into the ac outlet is causing this problem and was successful. The issue here isn’t the inlet thru hull, it’s the thrust of water pushing on the AC water inlet.
I did a series of joystick maneuvers in high rpm mode. Back, sideways and a combination of movements. In regular joystick mode, going against the port side outlet, I had no problems. As soon as I switched to high rpm, then did a reverse then quick starboard side movement, the AC went into HPF mode and shutdown. I was able to reproduce this on demand, only in high rpm mode. I turned off the AC after settling in the waves, and turned it back on, the thruhull was primed by then.
So this issue isn’t limited to the 38 and appears to be simply a combination of prop movement in certain directions pushing water through the water inlet side. The pump can’t overcome it.
Hopefully the OP has an update from his tech on the status of troubleshooting?
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Post by tc33obx on Jun 15, 2020 14:51:50 GMT -5
I wonder if angling the motors down a bit would have any benefit in keeping this from happening in Boost mode? I haven't seen this with my 33 OBX but I don't use the air conditioner as frequently as you guys do since it primarily a box rider.
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 16, 2020 9:47:24 GMT -5
I tested my theory yesterday that the back pressure into the ac outlet is causing this problem and was successful. The issue here isn’t the inlet thru hull, it’s the thrust of water pushing on the AC water inlet. I did a series of joystick maneuvers in high rpm mode. Back, sideways and a combination of movements. In regular joystick mode, going against the port side outlet, I had no problems. As soon as I switched to high rpm, then did a reverse then quick starboard side movement, the AC went into HPF mode and shutdown. I was able to reproduce this on demand, only in high rpm mode. I turned off the AC after settling in the waves, and turned it back on, the thruhull was primed by then. So this issue isn’t limited to the 38 and appears to be simply a combination of prop movement in certain directions pushing water through the water inlet side. The pump can’t overcome it. Hopefully the OP has an update from his tech on the status of troubleshooting? Dont believe it is the water pressure pushing on the AC sea water inlet, the opposite, back flow causing cavitation and loss of suction pressure at the inlet? Something you should contact Regal customer service about! Dont forget to have hull number when e mailing or calling! |
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Post by rlazar on Jun 20, 2020 13:40:17 GMT -5
So here is what happens but I’m not exactly sure what causes it. Afte either hard joystick or or maybe just a lot of reverse, I end up with about 2 inches of an air gap in the strainer. This will not allow the pump water to flow. I simply loosen the lid, air escapes then I’m all good. No side how to prevent that from happening
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Post by tc33obx on Jun 21, 2020 9:45:38 GMT -5
Maybe put a flap on that exhaust port at the back? Or a check valve in the line between the strainer and the exist at the rear to stop back flow?
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 21, 2020 11:00:47 GMT -5
Agree, other than check valve would produce some suction pressure loss and typically wouldn't be needed in a properly sized system. Suggest OP contact Regal or authorized dealer to troubleshoot!
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Post by rlazar on Jun 24, 2020 11:40:22 GMT -5
So here is a pic of the AC/GEn pickup on the 38XO. When I have a problem ( lost its prime) the water level inside the strainer is 2 inches down which is just below the outlet side ( for the AC and GEN). I can fix but loosening the strainer lid, which allows the air to escape and water to fill. THen I am all good. Question is why this keeps happening. Even if I use the joystick hard in reverse, air should not be entering the system... right? ![]()  |
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Post by tc33obx on Jun 24, 2020 13:14:11 GMT -5
Well I think when you are in reverse you end up getting healthy water flow that is a combination of water and cavitation bubbles. I wouldn't think that would displace the water in there if the unit was off, but if it was running, I would think you would draw in water that is now not pure water but a combination of water and air due to prop wash and cavitation when running in reverse. Perhaps it draws in enough air where it eventually impacts the feed to the air conditioner pump. I would think your gene could overcome those bubbles but not the air conditioner pump.
I think the air bubble are drawn in on the inlet that is below the boat, not the exit as I originally thought.
The only solution I could see is to turn off the gene and air and pump relay when docking and then throw it back on after hooking up electric. You could test that theory pretty easily.
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Post by rlazar on Jun 24, 2020 13:17:17 GMT -5
Well I think when you are in reverse you end up getting healthy water flow that is a combination of water and cavitation bubbles. I wouldn't think that would displace the water in there if the unit was off, but if it was running, I would think you would draw in water that is now not pure water but a combination of water and air due to prop wash and cavitation when running in reverse. Perhaps it draws in enough air where it eventually impacts the feed to the air conditioner pump. I would think your gene could overcome those bubbles but not the air conditioner pump. I think the air bubble are drawn in on the inlet that is below the boat, not the exit as I originally thought. The only solution I could see is to turn off the gene and air and pump relay when docking and then throw it back on after hooking up electric. You could test that theory pretty easily. All AC and GEN have been off during docking. I suspect I would NOT have the problem at all if the gen was running moving water through the strainer. |
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Post by tc33obx on Jun 24, 2020 13:26:16 GMT -5
Then I think I'm back to my original thoughts, that perhaps the joystick action in reverse is pushing enough water and bubbles due to cavitation into the exit port or the inlet. Air does rise so maybe the air bubbles simply migrated up the inlet or through exit into your strainer causing the issue. It's got to be the cavitation bubbles that are causing the issue, when using the joystick on my 33 OBX there is a load of bubbles back there, especially if I use boost. I'll have to check my strainers. I haven't run the gene or the air for over a month due to simply doing day trips since getting to the Jersey shore. I do have separate gene and air conditioning relay strainers though in the 33.
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Post by omarf4 on Jun 24, 2020 22:40:04 GMT -5
I agree and as originally said, the water is being pushed through the outlet side and pushing air in. Thus trapping the air in the line into the straining causing an air lock.
Rlazar, what’s regal or your dealer tech saying?
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 27, 2020 10:06:03 GMT -5
Agree, new vessel under factory warranty let the dealer/Regal figure it out? Air in strainer when it and bottom thru hull inlet are below water level should mean something is leaking and if below water level, would be lake water, if above not sure about that. You may have a air leak above the strainer and it is letting air siphon down into strainer?
Let us know what you find out and what your Regal dealer indicates is the problem.
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