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Post by Rob on Jun 21, 2020 22:32:03 GMT -5
I need some help. We put in yesterday, 90 degree weather, no rain. Checked the bilge a few times, just looking to be sure all was well, none of the gear in the side compartment moving around, that sort of thing. The bilge was bone dry when we left the boat in our freshwater wet slip at the state marina. Drive left down, cockpit and bow covers on, all the usual stuff. Arrive today and buzz around for an hour and then cut the engine to hang out and drift, and we hear a slurping noise from beneath the rear lift hatch. On opening the hatch, the bilge pump was sputtering, not enough water to pump but just enough to tickle the float switch. It was only about an inch at the forward part of the bilge, and it ran forward through the lowest limber hole when we walked toward the bow, and ran back out into the bilge when we walked aft. It isn’t any more than we usually have in the bilge, and didn’t go above the stain that has been made by the usual amount of standing water. But I’m curious where the water comes from. Only been in the lake for 24 hours and no rain, and the bilge already has the same level of water as it usually has by end of season. How much water is normal? I’ve wondered this since we got the boat. I looked at what I could see and I couldn’t see water coming in. Looked with engine running and off. Checked hose clamps and all were tight. Drain plug is in place. No water in anchor locker, ski locker, or that weird second layer beneath the ski locker that you can see through the ski locker drain.
Here are some additional specifics. 2015 Regal 2300 bought as leftover in 2016. All freshwater use. About 70 hours on Volvo Penta 300 hp with I/O duoprop. It uses lake water for cooling. Haven’t had the drive pulled ever, but change oil/filter/drive fluid yearly. Fully winterized each year. It does have underwater lights mounted on transom, factory installed, but I cannot see any leaks. The parts of the boot and seals visible from outside the boat before launch looked fine. Stored winterized indoors on bunk trailer.
It might be normal although I’m baffled to know where the water comes from. Our last boat was a 1998 Sea Ray we bought used in 2002, and it never had water in the bilge unless swimmers swamped the place or there was heavy rain, and in those cases, the bilge pump was mounted in a depressed well right under the engine, and this was the lowest spot, so it always sucked out every last drop. On the Regal, the pump is forward of the engine, and not at the low point, so once we take on water, it is with us until the end of the season. Usually have four gallons or so that drain out when I pull the drain plug at season’s end. I’ve been trying to think of a way to mount a second pump just in front of the drain plug, not blocking it of course, but no way I can fit back there to secure it.
I appreciate any insights that anyone can share. Is it normal? An expected amount? Anything to worry about? Any diagnostic maneuvers I can try?
Thank you everyone.
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Post by tc33obx on Jun 22, 2020 8:12:25 GMT -5
Bow Riders are notorious for leaking where the bow cockpit cover meets the main cockpit cover. Depending on where your boat is stored, that water could be from rain that happened weeks earlier and simply accumulated in the nooks and crannies within the hull until you went up on plane a few times and forced it to the back. To me that would be the easiest explanation, along with the swimmers theory, but if neither of those happened. The possible culprits are the bellows for the outdrive or a leaking cooling systems somewhere on the engine. You wouldn't necessarily see water falling off the engine, nor would you really see a leaking bellows for the engine, but that's the only other places I would expect water could come in on your boat. Thru hull fittings would be a possibility as well, but you probably don't have too many of them.
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Post by Rob on Jun 22, 2020 9:49:22 GMT -5
Thanks for your response. That all makes sense, and I guess it could be at play. Certainly, I have noticed some water on the seats beneath the junction of the two covers in the past, after a heavy rain.
It may still be that water was hiding and ran aft when on plane. The boat was indoors for winter, and for the past month, had its towing cover over it and a plastic tarp over that. I guess it is possible that water still could have gotten in, but the drain plug was out so if it did, most should have drained. Maybe not the nooks and crannies. But since we put her in on an absolutely beautiful day and had no rain overnight, and the bilge was dry after running for a few hours Saturday, I was alarmed to see water already collecting on Sunday.
So how much is too much? What can I do to check it out? Would I need to pull the boat and have the drive pulled, or are there things that can be done short of that? Hate to ruin a good chunk of summer with the boat up on the hard, but it would be more problematic to find her submerged at the dock one day. I appreciate your advice and any additional bits of your experience that you or anyone else are able to share.
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 22, 2020 9:56:16 GMT -5
The height of water that the float switch in the bilge pump actuates is a function of how high the water is in the bilge(ya, OK) , where the pump is mounted, and where the float switch senses it needs to turn on. Assume you might have a manual "bilge switch at the helm" that you can turn on manually and see/listen for water being pump out via a thru hull fitting? We have a manual switch at the helm that we can manually actuate to run both bilge pumps. Possible you have one manual switch at helm if so, try it. Also, if the bilge was dry when launching this spring then I would think about out drive bellows, sea water piping, etc. as possible cause.
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Post by rlazar on Jun 22, 2020 18:13:29 GMT -5
So look at this pic of the aft bilge in my 38XO. It’s hard to tell from the pic but the bottom of the pump is higher than the bottom of then bilge switch by a few inches I think. While underway in anything but flat seas my bilge indicator light keeps going off. I think this may be a function of if the pump and switch are mounted. When there is enough water here to active the float switch the pump comes on but leaves a few inches at least because of the pump height. This is a small compartment with a 1 inch diameter hold at the bottom by the float switch the allow water to enter and also leave if the boat is not upward angled. I think water is coming in and out and the pump is coming on but can’t clear enough water due to the pump height. The dealer is looking at it but I have not heard back yet. Attachments:
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Post by Rob on Jun 22, 2020 20:07:54 GMT -5
 I totally can envision your situation. I can see how having the switch activate by being physically lower than the pump would lead to the pump slurping at water that isn’t high enough to collect. That would be annoying. Seems that the pump should be lower than the switch, even if just slightly, to eliminate this. Our pump and switch are mounted on that small riser down the center of the bilge, structural I’m guessing. This set up will never allow all the water to empty. I just want to make sure that the amount of water getting in is not an issue that needs to be addressed. I didn’t receive a call from the park rangers today telling me to get my boat off their lakebed, so that’s a very good sign. I’m going to try to drive there tomorrow after work and check on things, but I’m beginning to think that I may not ever be emptying the boat of all water, because mine too runs back and forth through the limber holes and I bet it is hung up forward of the hull step or elsewhere as others have suggested. Even though I purposely tow up some hills after collecting the boat with the trailer, I don’t think anything I can do approaches the angles in play when getting on plane. As long as it doesn’t keep increasing in volume, I’ll consider this a lesson learned. Thanks everyone. |
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spade
Full Member
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Post by spade on Jun 23, 2020 5:59:41 GMT -5
+1 on bellows. They will dry rot and crack over time. Typically faster on a trailered boat because of constantly lifting/ lowering the drive (what I have always been told by mechanics when I used to trailer.)
Past that, I would not expect to have any water in the bilge on a 2300 except, as you mentioned, from rain, people or water sports.
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 23, 2020 10:23:12 GMT -5
Being dry on a trailer will cause the sun to "dry out" the lower unit bellows (UV , natural ozone, and ultraviolet spectrum). This may certainly be you problem with bilge water when in the water vs dry docked? Take a good look at the bellows or have a marine mechanic look at them.
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Post by Rob on Jun 23, 2020 21:50:01 GMT -5
I appreciate the tips and thoughts. Swamped at work this week, but if I can get to the boat one night after work, or more likely this weekend, I’m going to go through a thorough inspection at dockside and then pull her out and evaluate from the outside as well. I’ll update when I have new information. Thank you everyone.
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Post by Rob on Jun 27, 2020 16:55:54 GMT -5
Hello everyone. So here is the follow up. As you might imagine, there is only so much space in the engine bay for my 250 pounds to fit in, but I found this and wanted to ask if people agree that this is a sign of water intrusion. The red arrow is pointing to the wire that runs through hull to the starboard underwater LED light. It looks to me like that stain is from dirty lake water running in and down beneath the wire. I cannot see the other side since it is hidden behind the blower tubing. If I can borrow a Go Pro or maybe a selfie stick, I might be able to use either to see the other side from a better angle. To those of you with more experience than me, is this what water intrusion would look like? The good news, I think, is that with all sorts of maneuvering with drive up, down, up and left, up and right, you get the picture, I saw no influx of water so I feel reasonably confident that it isn’t likely the bellows. If people agree that this is probably where the leak is, what would be the best way to repair this? Thank you for all the guidance.  |
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Post by Av8ator1 on Jun 28, 2020 7:52:46 GMT -5
The only good way to fix it, would be to seal from the transom side.
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Post by tc33obx on Jun 28, 2020 9:38:53 GMT -5
Yes it does, I’m guessing that is a speedo or depth finder lead going through the transom? I agree with Av8ator the best way to fix is to seal it with RTV from the outside. You might get some benefit from the inside but if you can easily pull your boat, I’d do it right.
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Post by Rob on Jun 28, 2020 10:26:42 GMT -5
Thanks for the feedback guys. It actually is the wire that goes to the underwater LEDs. Not sure I would’ve put them in if they weren’t part of the boat when purchased, but now I’ve developed a bias against unnecessary holes in the hull.
I have an email out to Regal to find out what adhesive sealant they used to mount them originally, and I plan to pull the boat, wash up the inside of the bilge, clean the transom, pull the plug, and disassemble the LEDs and let her dry out for a few days. Then I was thinking I’d use 3M 4000 or 4200 to remount them and seal that wire penetration. I wasn’t thinking that silicone would be the right choice, and was leaning toward 4000 since the mounting plate for the lights likely is plastic. The choice of marine sealants is a course of study in and of itself!
Any recommendations on adhesive sealant would be appreciated, and I’ll follow up when done. Thanks so much.
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 29, 2020 9:44:58 GMT -5
use either of the 3M sealants. Pull boat out and let dry in the sun for a day or so. Then totally clean the wire inlets fro outside the hull with rubbing alcohol. Let dry and apply sealant.I believe you can buy a small (3 oz.) tube of the 3 M stuff. Dont need a full cartridge! Also, while boat out of wter hav a good look at the out-drive bellows for fine cracks. Better yet, have a marine mechanic look at it and tell you what he thinks. Changing the outdrive bellow gets pricey and if done, need to replace shift cable bellows and check gimbal bearings and U joints? Good luck and let us know what you find out!
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rg737
New Member
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Post by rg737 on May 6, 2024 5:25:34 GMT -5
View AttachmentI totally can envision your situation. I can see how having the switch activate by being physically lower than the pump would lead to the pump slurping at water that isn’t high enough to collect. That would be annoying. Seems that the pump should be lower than the switch, even if just slightly, to eliminate this. Our pump and switch are mounted on that small riser down the center of the bilge, structural I’m guessing. This set up will never allow all the water to empty. I just want to make sure that the amount of water getting in is not an issue that needs to be addressed. I didn’t receive a call from the park rangers today telling me to get my boat off their lakebed, so that’s a very good sign. I’m going to try to drive there tomorrow after work and check on things, but I’m beginning to think that I may not ever be emptying the boat of all water, because mine too runs back and forth through the limber holes and I bet it is hung up forward of the hull step or elsewhere as others have suggested. Even though I purposely tow up some hills after collecting the boat with the trailer, I don’t think anything I can do approaches the angles in play when getting on plane. As long as it doesn’t keep increasing in volume, I’ll consider this a lesson learned. Thanks everyone. I've got a 2300 Surf and have been wondering what the purpose of this drain plug is. This is viewed looking forward. The fuel tank is located a few inches from the other side of this bulkhead. Not sure if this internal drain plug needs to be in or out for normal operation. Attachments:
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