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Post by rlazar on Jun 24, 2020 12:07:22 GMT -5
This was mentioned in another post but I wanted to create a new thread as well for this specific issue. On my 38XO when conditions are anything other than totally flat, my aft bilge pump is going off 100's of times. It's hard to tell from the pic, but when I look at the float switch and the pump, to me it looks like the bottom of the pump is higher than the middle of the float switch. If that is the case then as water fills the compartment, the float switch would activate the pump but the pump would not be able to bring the water level down far enough to turn off the pump. I have been going back and forth with the dealer on this who have been speaking to Regal and they feel the problem is a faulty float switch. The dealer said they need to replace the float switch first because that is what Regal is telling them to do. My issue is I know how this will work out. They will replace the float switch and maybe take the boat on a sea trial. Last time we did, I didn't have an issue because conditions were flat calm. I am 125 miles from the dealer and I'm supposed to be bringing the boat back to my home port this Sunday. My fear is I will continue to have the problem but as of next week, my boat will be a 2 hour car ride or a 3 hour boat ride back to the dealer. Next week we also want to travel for July 4th etc. Hard to see from the pic, but the bottom of the pump is about at the same level as the middle of the float switch. I would think it should be the other way around, with the pump being lower than the float switch. To that point, I found a pic in the manual where it shows the float switch behind the pump where mine is located in front of the pump. If it were behind, then the pump bottom would be lower than the float switch ( which I think is the correct setup).  I have an email/call to Regal specifically asking which mount location/setup is correct, the way it is on my boat or the way its shown in the manual. I also think I can test my theory by plugging the two 1 inch holes in the compartment ( you cant see them in the pic) and filling with water until ther pump comes on. If its working correctly the pump should bring the water level down to the point where the pump turns back off. If the bottom of the pump is too high, it should keep running. |
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Post by tc33obx on Jun 24, 2020 13:21:51 GMT -5
I would agree. To me your dealer should be able to easily fix that by moving the float switch up either by shimming it underneath or switching the location of the pump and float switch. Should be a fairly easy fix.
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Post by rlazar on Jun 24, 2020 13:53:12 GMT -5
I would agree. To me your dealer should be able to easily fix that by moving the float switch up either by shimming it underneath or switching the location of the pump and float switch. Should be a fairly easy fix. Which is my thoughts but running into the service manager talking to Regal and Regal only authorising to replace the switch at this point. I know they will get it solved eventually but I am trying to get this done before I have to move the boat etc. I may make the drive down there tonight just to test my theory on height |
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Post by xixp on Jun 24, 2020 15:04:27 GMT -5
It has caught my attention that in my 16 sc35 Regal installed automatic pumps that dont use float switch at all. (They have an internal sensor that detects water presence).
My previous 2010 3760 had the same float switch setup that in my opinion is not so dependable because it relies on a mechanical switch.
On the other hand i agree with your assessment; the switch has to be moved to be leveled with the pump.
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Post by rlazar on Jun 24, 2020 22:05:39 GMT -5
So I drive one way 125 miles to my boat and tested my theory. I blocked the holes and fill the compartment with water. Float activated the pump which took some water out but not low enough to deactivate the float switch. Pump runs forever. I sent and email with my findings to the head tech and at 10 pm tonight he sent and email to service instructing them to order a new pump and float and re-install everything and to have it done by Friday. Well that’s a good sign.
In terms of a pump with an internal sensor/switch, I think that would be a better solution.
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 25, 2020 10:47:20 GMT -5
Yes, float switch needs to be slightly above bottom of pump. But, usual bilge pump installation pump pickup should be directly on bottom of bilge (OK, with 1/4" space or so) ? The pumps with built in electronic level switches I am only familiar with for sump pumps (shower/sink/ AC condensate) of witch we have now have 2X 1000 GPH Johnson sump pumps with the electronic switch internal to the housing. No problems for 3 years. Just need to keep tank cleaned out and pour a pint or so of hydrogen peroxide in every couple of months.
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Post by rlazar on Jun 25, 2020 11:31:40 GMT -5
Looks like they are going to replace my separate float switch and pump with a pump with an internal sensor. This will be done tomorrow and I will be going on a long trip this weekend so I'll see how it all works out.
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 26, 2020 11:10:40 GMT -5
So, separate float switch gets removed and new pump with built in electronic switching gets installed. Sounds good, let us know how you make out!
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Post by rlazar on Jun 26, 2020 14:17:59 GMT -5
Ugh. So they removed the float switch and pump and put in a new pump with an internal sensor. Thought I wound be good to go. I asked for a pic of the install and it turns out they installed a 900gpm pump when the original was 1500gpm. So needless to say that’s not going to fly. They said the wrong one was installed.
Now one tech says they will put the original float switch back but raise it up like 1/2 inch while the other thinks it would be better to use an automatic pump size at 1500gpm.
I think I’m leaning towards the automatic pump but I have a call into Rule technical support regarding the automatic function. According to the manual it comes on for a second every 90 seconds to check for water. I need to know when that happens if the dash bilge light will illuminate. The reason is because that will trigger my siren marine remote monitor so I may have to set that different.
Bottom lines I just want to bilge pump to work as it should and not freak me out by coming on 300 times in an hours which causes one to think the boat it taking on water.
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 27, 2020 10:11:04 GMT -5
Still not sure why you dont let Regal handle it? Doesn't it have a full Regal factory warranty on it? I dont think Rule will be able to fix anything over the phone?
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Post by rlazar on Jun 27, 2020 11:02:48 GMT -5
Still not sure why you dont let Regal handle it? Doesn't it have a full Regal factory warranty on it? I dont think Rule will be able to fix anything over the phone? The closest regal dealer is 80 miles and a 3 hour boat ride. I am letting them fix it but it’s dragging on and they can’t get it done. They had a problem re-programming / loading my seastar joystick profile so o had to solve that for them as well. If they can’t get it done I will. We have been staying at the dealer now for 6 weeks trying to get all issues resolved. There is a few outstanding items but the pump is the high priority. I’m taking the boat back to my home port Monday and it the bilge pump is still an issue I’ll get it solved one way or the other. |
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Post by xixp on Jun 27, 2020 13:33:39 GMT -5
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Post by rlazar on Jun 28, 2020 5:59:50 GMT -5
Here is another possible issue about the install from the factory which I do not like and wonder if that is part of my problem.
The output fore the bilge pump is only 4 inches above the waterline. It comes into the boat a goes up about an inch then runs across the back of the boat about 5 feet horizontal then down below the waterline to the pump. If you look at every bilge pump installed guide they say/require the outlet be 12 inches about the static waterline.
At only 4 inches there is not much to prevent water running back into the hose when stopping, coming off plane or rough conditions.
I was thinking about extending the hose and running it up a foot then looping down into the pump. The pump docs indicate to add a vented loop but other sources say you don’t need that if the output if above the water line.
Thoughts???
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Post by gofast24 on Jun 28, 2020 9:36:59 GMT -5
This was mentioned in another post but I wanted to create a new thread as well for this specific issue. On my 38XO when conditions are anything other than totally flat, my aft bilge pump is going off 100's of times. It's hard to tell from the pic, but when I look at the float switch and the pump, to me it looks like the bottom of the pump is higher than the middle of the float switch. If that is the case then as water fills the compartment, the float switch would activate the pump but the pump would not be able to bring the water level down far enough to turn off the pump. I have been going back and forth with the dealer on this who have been speaking to Regal and they feel the problem is a faulty float switch. The dealer said they need to replace the float switch first because that is what Regal is telling them to do. My issue is I know how this will work out. They will replace the float switch and maybe take the boat on a sea trial. Last time we did, I didn't have an issue because conditions were flat calm. I am 125 miles from the dealer and I'm supposed to be bringing the boat back to my home port this Sunday. My fear is I will continue to have the problem but as of next week, my boat will be a 2 hour car ride or a 3 hour boat ride back to the dealer. Next week we also want to travel for July 4th etc. Hard to see from the pic, but the bottom of the pump is about at the same level as the middle of the float switch. I would think it should be the other way around, with the pump being lower than the float switch. To that point, I found a pic in the manual where it shows the float switch behind the pump where mine is located in front of the pump. If it were behind, then the pump bottom would be lower than the float switch ( which I think is the correct setup). I have an email/call to Regal specifically asking which mount location/setup is correct, the way it is on my boat or the way its shown in the manual. I also think I can test my theory by plugging the two 1 inch holes in the compartment ( you cant see them in the pic) and filling with water until ther pump comes on. If its working correctly the pump should bring the water level down to the point where the pump turns back off. If the bottom of the pump is too high, it should keep running. Looks like it is that the pump isnt level (flat) and if offset just a little the pumps inlet grill is open to air above water line it will start cavatating and not pump while the float switch is still seeing water and continuing to power pump,? |
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Post by omarf4 on Jun 28, 2020 9:41:03 GMT -5
Here is another possible issue about the install from the factory which I do not like and wonder if that is part of my problem. The output fore the bilge pump is only 4 inches above the waterline. It comes into the boat a goes up about an inch then runs across the back of the boat about 5 feet horizontal then down below the waterline to the pump. If you look at every bilge pump installed guide they say/require the outlet be 12 inches about the static waterline. At only 4 inches there is not much to prevent water running back into the hose when stopping, coming off plane or rough conditions. I was thinking about extending the hose and running it up a foot then looping down into the pump. The pump docs indicate to add a vented loop but other sources say you don’t need that if the output if above the water line. Thoughts??? I’ve installed dozens of bilge pumps On my boats over the years....two things work: 1) 12” above waterline (that’s an NMMA standard) or a 12” downward run 2) small loop in the hose if the outlet thru hull can’t be installed 12” above waterline. You need a loop in your case. My 33 has a loop since the outlet is about 3” above waterline. Don’t extend the hose. Run a new proper length hose. Let regal or your dealer fix this so it’s on record. |
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