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Post by gofast24 on Jan 2, 2021 10:57:07 GMT -5
Looks like we are having a moderator/moderator chat other than jnelson, jnelson thanks for posting! Your thoughts were spot on!
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Post by lg260ss on Jan 2, 2021 20:44:36 GMT -5
Thanks, great idea! Only question is if I install this (where?)the info on this unit indicates= "measures two voltage inputs (up to 75V) and one current shunt (up to 60A using the internal shunt), then "external shunt capable (up to 1000A) and can control external relay / SSR". So where did you install yours as the 60 amp max. built in shunt will not be anywhere what will be drawn from the battery ? If just going to and from the Charles 60 amps would work, but then what am I getting, just either alternator or house charger + charge levels. I installed mine and in the engine room very close to the batteries on the firewall, and I installed an external 500 amp shunt On the load side of the main DC breaker in the engine room. I only use one of the voltage inputs and I don’t use the relay. here is a pic of the monitor and shunt installed.  |
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 3, 2021 5:57:46 GMT -5
Thanks, great idea! Only question is if I install this (where?)the info on this unit indicates= "measures two voltage inputs (up to 75V) and one current shunt (up to 60A using the internal shunt), then "external shunt capable (up to 1000A) and can control external relay / SSR". So where did you install yours as the 60 amp max. built in shunt will not be anywhere what will be drawn from the battery ? If just going to and from the Charles 60 amps would work, but then what am I getting, just either alternator or house charger + charge levels. I installed mine and in the engine room very close to the batteries on the firewall, and I installed an external 500 amp shunt On the load side of the main DC breaker in the engine room. I only use one of the voltage inputs and I don’t use the relay. here is a pic of the monitor and shunt installed. View AttachmentThanks, looks great! As we dont have (or need) a DC/AC invertor for any AC house loads (use shore power or gen set) And our biggest DC load is (always has been) the 2X 600 watt RMS JL Audio amps (1X for 12" marine JL Audio sub, second 4 channel for 4X bridge deck/radar arch speakers) , the other loads are low current and intermittent (fresh water pump/toilets/LED lighting/AC-DC fridge). I will just take a DC current reading with my clamp on DC ammeter at LiFePO4 negative lead and record current draw with audio system running somewhat loud and flush one toilet and let fresh water pump kick in and see what current consumption results are. As we have a very accurate Blue Seas OLED voltmeter mounted at the helm will go by voltage reading vs depth of discharge/voltage curve I received from OEM (Fly Power) and use that info to determine when to slow down on current draw or start gen set for a while to push 30 amps into the battery? |
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 4, 2021 8:16:18 GMT -5
Thanks, great idea! Only question is if I install this (where?)the info on this unit indicates= "measures two voltage inputs (up to 75V) and one current shunt (up to 60A using the internal shunt), then "external shunt capable (up to 1000A) and can control external relay / SSR". So where did you install yours as the 60 amp max. built in shunt will not be anywhere what will be drawn from the battery ? If just going to and from the Charles 60 amps would work, but then what am I getting, just either alternator or house charger + charge levels. I installed mine and in the engine room very close to the batteries on the firewall, and I installed an external 500 amp shunt On the load side of the main DC breaker in the engine room. I only use one of the voltage inputs and I don’t use the relay. here is a pic of the monitor and shunt installed. View AttachmentFound this, what do you think? Makes sense to put shunt into negative side of house battery? The previous Bluetooth one I was considering had terrible reviews, Bluetooth range only 15' and app on phone had to be exclusively on all the time for it to keep track of DOD, ah remaining etc so took it off my list. This is what I am onsidering= www.amazon.com/dp/B0824X5MKM/?coliid=I1G592EEGS7TOK&colid=1FEFI98U8V1TL&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it |
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Post by jnelson90 on Jan 4, 2021 11:54:11 GMT -5
My only concern would be if it is ignition protected as I am assuming you are installing in the engine room. Happy New Year and may 2021 be the best boating season ever - it has to be better than 2020!
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 5, 2021 10:41:11 GMT -5
Good point, dont know but also dont know what might cause a spark, it just a shunt and some cable to a digital display gage I will mount at the helm? Back at you with the Happy New Year and also great boating season for 2021!
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 13, 2021 11:22:26 GMT -5
Good point, dont know but also dont know what might cause a spark, it just a shunt and some cable to a digital display gage I will mount at the helm? Back at you with the Happy New Year and also great boating season for 2021! Got it, so light 46 lbs I could carry it to my shop from garage. A couple of pic's of my messing with it. Nice 10 amp charger was included (plugs directly into battery on end) and built in voltmeter with two USB charging ports (who would want to charge a phone directly into end of battery)? |
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wjh
Full Member
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Post by wjh on Jan 26, 2021 9:29:56 GMT -5
Did you ever get battery installed? Interested in your thoughts on how it performs.
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 26, 2021 11:56:59 GMT -5
Got this, $44 on Amazon. Comes with shunt good for up to 350 amps, and middle son is expert on pulling small cable from battery to helm, dont need Bluetooth on boat. Tested it, works great in shop (checked voltage and current reading against clamp on ammeter and Fluke multi meter , now to boat next week! With this I can determine all current in and out of battery, state of charge in %, actual voltage at battery and especially what is coming from engine alternators (and Charles House battery charger) trying to recharge this bat when at 50% DOD. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0824X5MKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 26, 2021 12:07:45 GMT -5
Did you ever get battery installed? Interested in your thoughts on how it performs. Install in a few weeks! Think I have got everything figured out other than LiFePO4 battery's like to see a 14.6 VDC charge, then taper down, off) and house charger and engine alternators will stop charge at approx. 13.6 VDC. From battery manufacture that will get me to about 98% SOC (state of charge), that's fine with me ! This bat can be discharged down to 80% with out any negative effects while typical lead acid/AGM doesn't like going down below 50% with out loosing some cycle and life. The new meter thing (?) will tell use what SOC (state of charge) is and we can then decide to run gen, turn down audio system, stop flushing toilets, or go back on shore power to let Charles charger take over  |
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wjh
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Post by wjh on Jan 27, 2021 8:49:22 GMT -5
Did you ever get battery installed? Interested in your thoughts on how it performs. Install in a few weeks! Think I have got everything figured out other than LiFePO4 battery's like to see a 14.6 VDC charge, then taper down, off) and house charger and engine alternators will stop charge at approx. 13.6 VDC. From battery manufacture that will get me to about 98% SOC (state of charge), that's fine with me ! This bat can be discharged down to 80% with out any negative effects while typical lead acid/AGM doesn't like going down below 50% with out loosing some cycle and life. The new meter thing (?) will tell use what SOC (state of charge) is and we can then decide to run gen, turn down audio system, stop flushing toilets, or go back on shore power to let Charles charger take over 👍 |
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 28, 2021 11:41:47 GMT -5
Install in a few weeks! Think I have got everything figured out other than LiFePO4 battery's like to see a 14.6 VDC charge, then taper down, off) and house charger and engine alternators will stop charge at approx. 13.6 VDC. From battery manufacture that will get me to about 98% SOC (state of charge), that's fine with me ! This bat can be discharged down to 80% with out any negative effects while typical lead acid/AGM doesn't like going down below 50% with out loosing some cycle and life. The new meter thing (?) will tell use what SOC (state of charge) is and we can then decide to run gen, turn down audio system, stop flushing toilets, or go back on shore power to let Charles charger take over 👍 New Battery Condition meter great! It's dead on with fluke volt meter and clamp on current meter. Cant say how good (so far) this unit is! Voltage, amp hours consumed, % remaining capacity, charge and discharge amps, whether charging or discharging (in amps) etc! $44 on Amazon. Just need to have middle son run small data cable (comes with a 13' cable) from battery shunt to helm and remove old Blue Seas OLED volt meter, it doesn't need to be there any more! More info from testing at home = When discharging battery backlight comes on and stay on showing discharge current, when charging backlight shows charge amps and blinks on and off and up arrow on left side of display shows charging and amps, but you can press two outside buttons to turn on/off back light in either case! Attachments:
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Post by lg260ss on Jan 28, 2021 19:14:05 GMT -5
New Battery Condition meter great! It's dead on with fluke volt meter and clamp on current meter. Cant say how good (so far) this unit is! Voltage, amp hours consumed, % remaining capacity, charge and discharge amps, whether charging or discharging (in amps) etc! $44 on Amazon. Just need to have middle son run small data cable (comes with a 13' cable) from battery shunt to helm and remove old Blue Seas OLED volt meter, it doesn't need to be there any more! More info from testing at home = When discharging battery backlight comes on and stay on showing discharge current, when charging backlight shows charge amps and blinks on and off and up arrow on left side of display shows charging and amps, but you can press two outside buttons to turn on/off back light in either case! You will love having a real battery monitor. It takes all of the guess work out of proper battery charging and discharging. |
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Post by gofast24 on Jan 31, 2021 10:50:29 GMT -5
Yes, but will be son that has to do the monitoring Only one minor problem = LiFePo4 battery likes to see 14.1 VDC charge voltage to get to 100% of rated 200 ah capacity. Have done that here at home with battery mfg. supplied charger, and after 24 hours settling in it show 14.1 VDC and "full" on new battery capacity meter. Only have a 10 amp charger that came with battery (free?) but it needs to be powered by 120 VAC, it plugs directly into a two aviation type connector terminal port on side of battery . If using Charles 40 amp house charger set to AGM switch position (AGM setting vs. flooded suggested by battery manufacture) it will charge new battery but only up to about 90/95% of full. Guess we can live with that? Great long thread sticking to one subject To mess that statement up I received first Moderna shot last week Thursday, second 28 days later. |
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Post by faverod on Feb 2, 2021 21:38:35 GMT -5
I’m interested in this install as well. I have a 3860 too and have considered upgraded from my lead acid  that I just replaced in 2020. I’ve added more solar for this year 550w’s but the constant voltage of Lifepo4 is intriguing. I’ve been struggling how to deal with the alternators being over taxed and burning out the diodes. I hadn’t considered just disconnecting the house from the charging block and directly connecting to its leg of the house charger. I was considering a battery to battery charger to go from my starters which are still lead acid to the lifepo4 house which I think is the best solution. But if I had 550w solar charging the house through a mppt charger and the option to charge through the Charles charger whether on shore power or on the generator, that might just be sufficient. I’ll be curious how the AGm versus lead acid on the Charles charger works for you. Since there’s two types of batteries and only one setting on the Charles charger, you don’t have much choice but default to the lead acid for the starters. At least the solar has a lithium setting plus custom set points but that’s really only used at anchor. The rest of the time I’d want the Charles charger to keep it topped off. That’s where the B2B comes in handy. Also, since we’re up north I need to take the lifep04 battery home for the winter so it wouldn’t freeze. The lead acid I just leave in fully charged and their fine. I was thinking of getting two 100 ah so they are a little more manageable due to weight and size over a single 200 ah. That’s hard to move and drop in on your own despite the weight reduction. |
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that I just replaced in 2020. I’ve added more solar for this year 550w’s but the constant voltage of Lifepo4 is intriguing. I’ve been struggling how to deal with the alternators being over taxed and burning out the diodes. I hadn’t considered just disconnecting the house from the charging block and directly connecting to its leg of the house charger. I was considering a battery to battery charger to go from my starters which are still lead acid to the lifepo4 house which I think is the best solution. But if I had 550w solar charging the house through a mppt charger and the option to charge through the Charles charger whether on shore power or on the generator, that might just be sufficient. I’ll be curious how the AGm versus lead acid on the Charles charger works for you. Since there’s two types of batteries and only one setting on the Charles charger, you don’t have much choice but default to the lead acid for the starters. At least the solar has a lithium setting plus custom set points but that’s really only used at anchor. The rest of the time I’d want the Charles charger to keep it topped off. That’s where the B2B comes in handy. Also, since we’re up north I need to take the lifep04 battery home for the winter so it wouldn’t freeze. The lead acid I just leave in fully charged and their fine. I was thinking of getting two 100 ah so they are a little more manageable due to weight and size over a single 200 ah. That’s hard to move and drop in on your own despite the weight reduction.