jaym
New Member
Posts: 1
|
Post by jaym on Apr 24, 2024 16:33:45 GMT -5
Looking for any tips! I have 2022 29 OBX with 2 Yama F200. I had multiple occurances where my house battery is being drawn down. The starting batteries are just fine. Even a couple days off the charger it starts right up but my electronics act flaky (e.g., no engine data on Garmin 743 and I got an Optimus alarm: "PCM lost communication"...). Both battery switches were off when not running. At one point the voltage was so low that the onboard Promariner charger did not recognize the house battery (meter read 2.4V. Luckily I was able to revive it). Each time, I swapped 1 starting battery for the house battery and all is well. All 3 batteries are Interstate 27M-XHD (flooded). I am thinking about replacing the house battery with 27M AGM deep cycle hoping more amp hours will be more resilient. My questions: a) Any others with battery issues or have identified vampire devices drawing current? b) Is it OK to mix AGM for house with flooded starting batteries? Thanks! Jay
|
|
|
|
Post by boatrunner on Apr 25, 2024 19:50:48 GMT -5
How old is the house battery?
Heres the instructions for determining phantom vampire current draws on a battery - car or boat. Seems this issue comes up a lot on various web forums:
1. You’ll need a digital multimeter that measures DC amps. Home Depot has a Klein meter for $35 (DM325)) which will work just fine.
2. Turn absolutely everything off on the boat especially any DC higher current drawing devices like a cabin refrigerator, radio, etc.
3. Disconnect the cabin batteries negative terminal from the battery post. Put the meter in its current (amps) setting for a 10amp max range. Connect the meters positive connection lead to the battery clamp that’s been removed from the battery (tape in place as needed). Connect the meters negative connection lead to the battery’s post terminal (tape in place to keep it attached).
4. Meter will hopefully show a current reading of say 0.100 amps? Could be higher or lower depending on the vampire level of draw. If no reading, turn on something small like a cabin light and see if you get anything? Test is successful if the light goes on and meter shows a current reading . If the light doesn’t turn on re-check your meter connections.
5. If all is good, turn the cabin light off and start pulling fuses. The goal here is to find the fuse, when removed, that makes the digital meter go to zero. Leave pulled fuses out until done with this test. The fuse identified will tell you whatever is connected to that circuit is the vampire current drawing device. Hopefully your fuses are well labeled?
Leave the last fuse pulled out of its holder and 1 by 1 return each extracted fuse and observe the meter. If any current draw resumes that means besides the last fuse pulled there’s a 2nd circuit with phantom draw. Hopefully this doesn’t occur but at least worth testing while you put things back together?
PS - There are plenty of online videos about how to use a meter to measure DC current. Refer to those as needed?
|
|
