|
Post by bobrim2 on May 30, 2019 16:07:13 GMT -5
On my 2011 3060 Window Express, I have 3 batteries.
On the starboard side there is one. I believe that acts as a starting battery for both the generator and the starboard engine.
On the port side I have two batteries. I believe that these act together as starting for the port engine and house battery.
All three batteries are the same. They are all Interstate Marine Cranking batteries 1000 MCA, 800 CCA. None of the batteries are a deep cycle battery like I would expect for a true house battery.
Question 1: Is this the correct configuration? All 3 the same? I don't know what is right...just what was there when I bought the boat used.
Question 2: I think I have a problem with my port alternator. After sitting on shore power overnight, a volt meter on each battery reads 11.9 port and 12.6 starboard. While running, the starboard battery volts reads between 12.6 and 13, while the port only reads around 11.5. While at anchor, with anything drawing on DC power at all, I quickly reach the point where I can't even run the stereo or the blower. To return home, I have to start the starboard engine, then press a "parallel" button to start the port engine. Running home, the port batteries don't seem to regain power much at all.
Do you agree with the bad port alternator theory?
Thank you,
Robert
|
|
|
Post by lg260ss on May 31, 2019 18:31:52 GMT -5
A battery that is only producing 11.9 volts after a night on a charger is a dead battery. 11.9 volts is essentially discharged. Replace the battery.
|
|
|
Post by lg260ss on May 31, 2019 18:32:13 GMT -5
A battery that is only producing 11.9 volts after a night on a charger is a dead battery. 11.9 volts is essentially discharged. Replace the battery.
|
|
|
Post by Av8ator1 on May 31, 2019 20:21:13 GMT -5
As LG indicated, replace the battery and check your alternators.
|
|
|
Post by gofast24 on Jun 8, 2019 5:16:27 GMT -5
Agree, 11.9 VDC is a worn out battery and needs to be replaced. If in fact it is the "house" battery then I suggest buying a deep cycle or AGM battery. Starting or "cranking" batteries are not meant for deep cycle "house" use and will not last very long. Not sure if the change in house battery to deep cycle or AGM type in parallel with the "starting" battery would cause any problems, don't believe so? Also, even at 11.9 VDC you should see a voltage increase to 13.8 to 14.3 or so when starting port engine if its alternator is working correctly. What is the voltage of the port engines "starting" battery just after starting and running engine for 5 minutes or so? LAst item, when at dock and engines off check all 3 batteries voltage (turn off all DC loads) with house battery charger off (at least 30 minutes or so) then turn on house battery charger and re check voltage at batteries ASAP. Let us know the results, you may also have a ailing house battery charger (which should also be charging the starting batteries while on shore power).>
|
|
|
Post by bobrim on Jun 12, 2019 8:12:49 GMT -5
So, I replaced the batteries and had my mechanic test my alternator. Alternator is working (putting out the proper volts), but he showed me an issue with the isolator. After much googling and reading, I now know what an isolator is and does (I think). If you look at the attached pictures, it is a Guest 2502 model isolator with connection that looks "fried". I believe the inside two wires come from the alternator. The outside 'double' wires are harder to trace. They enter a cable tray and go opposite directions. I think they attach to the charger and the battery "on/off" switch for each side. Does that make sense? I found a place to purchase a new isolator (same model). I don't know if I need to replace the cable or not. Thanks again... Robert Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by gofast24 on Jun 20, 2019 10:13:53 GMT -5
Definatley bad terminal/cable connector. You should take cable off, clean off completly with a brass wire brush, clean off terminal on battery charger, re connect, then check voltages out of house battery charger and see if 13.6 or so VDC coming from both charger terminals! if it were me, I would totally replace left cable and re check voltage at charger terminal! Most likely left terminal was loose and caused over heat of terminal and cable connection to cause that kind of failure. As there isn't any battery acid near/on the charger is most likely not acid corrosion, just loose/overheated terminal causing the failure.
|
|