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Post by regal2860 on Sept 13, 2020 13:30:42 GMT -5
having a drain issue with house battery.. draining fridge within 1 hour on dc power. is this normal? Also nowhere in any Regal manual does it say what size or kind of batteries to have.. isn't this a basic manual spec?? Dual purpose? What should be used and what is norman fridge drain (galley only). Shouldn't i be able to go at least 4-5 hours on the battery before draining? Help!
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Post by hawker63 on Sept 13, 2020 17:05:58 GMT -5
We have a 4460. I can’t speak to how long house battery will run the refrigerator, but I agree 1 hr seems very short. Engine are Group 31A, 1000 cold cranking amps house battery is deep cycle Group all are wet. Maybe check levels in case battery are low?
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Post by regal2860 on Sept 13, 2020 17:52:55 GMT -5
Thanks for your info.. i think a 4460 may be different from a 2860. just pulled them and altho they look fairly new they are 24a with 675 CCA. BOTH deep cycle..doesn't look like there's any more room for anything bigger... seem small to me.. will call regal tomorrow to see what is recommended.. Still can't believe they have no specs in the manual. I was thinking they should be dual purpose??? will test in the next few days.
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Post by lg260ss on Sept 13, 2020 18:43:12 GMT -5
What year is your 2860? Twin engines I presume?
In a twin engine cruiser I am surprised there aren’t 2 starting batteries and at least one house battery for a minimum of 3 batteries. Not all batteries labeled “deep cycle” are really deep cycle. Based on the size and cca rating, they are probably just starting batteries. Without knowing more about your boat and how it is wired it is hard to give advice. What kind of battery switch do you have? Is it a 1/2/all switch or do you have separate circuits for the house and starting batteries?
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Post by regal2860 on Sept 13, 2020 19:42:09 GMT -5
Its a 2010 with twin 4.3s I also would think three batteries are in order but there are only two. All is factory original and the boat only has 250 hours. Both separate circuits. with separate batt. switches. port controls start and controls and starboard controls start and house circuits in one. The manual says house and starboard are the same batt circuit and there is a parallel switch on the dash when one runs down to push to start the discharged starboard batt. I don't like the system but alas.. its factory and other than getting good quality batteries I'm not changing anything else. should i get deep cycle or dual purpose. I think just the normal start batteries are not sufficient. they are labeled duralast marine and rv deep cycle,part 24MD-DL 685 marine crank amps reserve capacity 140,I believe auto Zone batts. but who knows as you said. Thanks for your input and help.
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Post by lg260ss on Sept 13, 2020 19:56:10 GMT -5
Being that both batteries are used for starting and deep cycling I would go with dual purpose AGM’s with the largest capacity you can fit.
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Post by regal2860 on Sept 13, 2020 22:13:32 GMT -5
I'll go with that. Sounds like a good solution..thanks
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Post by gofast24 on Sept 14, 2020 10:13:28 GMT -5
Being that both batteries are used for starting and deep cycling I would go with dual purpose AGM’s with the largest capacity you can fit. I recommend you add a third "AGM type house battery:" as large as you cant get into engine room! Surprised Regal wired house battery loads to one or the other (or both) starting batteries, especially with a DC fridge! I would Never recommend any starting battery's to provide "house" DC loads, even with a "parallel switch"., that parallel switch is just a crutch to help start one engine if its starting battery is dead due to house DC loads!
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Post by lg260ss on Sept 14, 2020 19:20:03 GMT -5
Being that both batteries are used for starting and deep cycling I would go with dual purpose AGM’s with the largest capacity you can fit. I recommend you add a third "AGM type house battery:" as large as you cant get into engine room! Surprised Regal wired house battery loads to one or the other (or both) starting batteries, especially with a DC fridge! I would Never recommend any starting battery's to provide "house" DC loads, even with a "parallel switch"., that parallel switch is just a crutch to help start one engine if its starting battery is dead due to house DC loads! I agree, but the OP is not interested in rewiring the boat
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Post by regal2860 on Sept 16, 2020 16:13:51 GMT -5
Thanks for all that responded.. I agree a third house battery would be best but not into rewiring the boat. Just got two new dual purpose AGMs and will see how they go. The lead acid ones were three years old so on their way out anyway. Had to remember to reset the battery charger for AGMs. ..
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Post by gofast24 on Sept 17, 2020 10:57:35 GMT -5
Thanks for all that responded.. I agree a third house battery would be best but not into rewiring the boat. Just got two new dual purpose AGMs and will see how they go. The lead acid ones were three years old so on their way out anyway. Had to remember to reset the battery charger for AGMs. .. OK, good to go with deep cycle AGM's but, in a few years you will be back to same problem? if me, I would add a third AGM "House" battery with as high of a Amp-Hr rating as you can get into engine room and just do a little re wiring? If you have a "house" battery charger make sure it is capable of AGM batteries, ours has a switch on back of charger that allows change from flooded to AGM charging parameters. I think is is one of those "pay me a little now, or pay me more later" senerio's ? Good luck and stay safe!
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Post by gofast24 on Sept 25, 2020 11:17:15 GMT -5
Thanks for all that responded.. I agree a third house battery would be best but not into rewiring the boat. Just got two new dual purpose AGMs and will see how they go. The lead acid ones were three years old so on their way out anyway. Had to remember to reset the battery charger for AGMs. .. Not a third house battery but a new, separate dedicated deep cycle AGM house battery? Does you battery charger have 2 or three charge output circuits? We have 3X 30 AMP Charles battery charger outputs which takes care of our group 8 D AGM house battery and with all 4 AGM batteries on boat (2X engine starting, 1X Gen set starting, and 1X 8 D house battery) no problems in 5 years with any of them. To maintain the group 8 G house battery I installed a Blue Seas OLED voltmeter on the helm, when it shows less than 12.4 VDC time to shut down some loads (mostly stereo system) and /or start gen set. Experience with our 8 G AGM house battery it ran the fridge for about a week when shore power was off, happy that it kept beer (and some food) cold for a week My suggestion is to add a dedicated deep cycle AGM house battery, disconnect the house DC feed cable from current starting battery that is powering your house loads, , and install a battery isolator to allow engine alternator to charge it but not back feed into that starter battery. Don't know how handy you are with electrical circuits so maybe check with a certified Marine electrician as to cost to do this? Just my thoughts Also note = When typing in a group 8 D battery in post i you dont separate the 8 and the D you will get a = (smiley face)! Doesn't seem to be doing that now but will look back at post to see if it happened.?
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Post by gofast24 on Sept 25, 2020 11:18:48 GMT -5
Yes, typing group 8 D (no space between 8 and D shows a smiley face?? Guess we have more problems than that:)
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