Post by dmundarain on Oct 28, 2020 17:27:17 GMT -5
I just completed the installation of the NRX300 remote for the 23 OBX and here are some steps that can save you a few hours of work and heavy reflection...
1) The goals was to complete the installation so the Fusion 650 UD could be fully controlled from the swim platform
Requirements:
A) Avoid running power and leverage the NMEA 2000 bus that includes power
B) Make the installation look as OEM as possible
c) Stay under $200 for this project
Materials:
www.amazon.com/Fusion-Entertainment-Wired-Remote-Control/dp/B01H0NU7EI Sold for $157
Ty wraps to for the backbone cable to look neat.
NOTHING ELSE!!
SOLUTION:
After following cables back and forth from the Fusion radio, I found out that it is already connected to the NMEA network. I couldn't find a reason for it, so I will assume this is just to support the installation of the remote if you order it from the factory. Since the radio is already connected, you don't need to spend any time with the radio. All that's needed is to find the NMEA hub behind the plotter and plug a NMEA 2000 T-connector in an empty port, and plug the 20' NMEA 2000 backbone cable to it (all these pieces come with the NRX300)
The difficult piece: routing the backbone cable to the swim platform. The key here is that with some patience and a long bar (I used the aluminum telescopic bar from the boat cover) You can run the cable from the dashboard all the way to the transom without disassembling anything. I started by inserting the bar form the cooler space and push it all the way up to the console, it stayed there because there are a bunch of cable harnesses to hold it. Once that was there, I went to into the bow compartment on the starboard side and tape the NMEA 2K backbone cable to the bar and used it to fish the cable all the way to the transom.
The nerve wracking piece: Pick the location, you can see what mine look like in the pictures and tape the template for drilling the main hole and the 4 holes for the screws. My boat was 2 months old, so I measured it a few times. The main hole was drilled with the 2in hole saw and the screws required a bigger bit than the 3/32 suggested on the instructions or your gelcoat holes will not look as professional. You can put the screws in to see how tight they are and go to the next size drill bit.
I didn't use any sealant. I wanted to be able to replace the remote without damaging the finish if needed. I used the rubber gasket that come with the remote and it makes a very good seal all around. Once your holes are done, drop the remote cable in and connected to the backbone cable. You don't need power at all, nut you need some ty wraps to make it look neat all the way.
Now enjoy your music without carrying your phone in the sun and the ocean. The quality of the screen is impressive and it also comes with a 3 year warranty!
Regards,
Dimitri![]()
1) The goals was to complete the installation so the Fusion 650 UD could be fully controlled from the swim platform
Requirements:
A) Avoid running power and leverage the NMEA 2000 bus that includes power
B) Make the installation look as OEM as possible
c) Stay under $200 for this project
Materials:
www.amazon.com/Fusion-Entertainment-Wired-Remote-Control/dp/B01H0NU7EI Sold for $157
Ty wraps to for the backbone cable to look neat.
NOTHING ELSE!!
SOLUTION:
After following cables back and forth from the Fusion radio, I found out that it is already connected to the NMEA network. I couldn't find a reason for it, so I will assume this is just to support the installation of the remote if you order it from the factory. Since the radio is already connected, you don't need to spend any time with the radio. All that's needed is to find the NMEA hub behind the plotter and plug a NMEA 2000 T-connector in an empty port, and plug the 20' NMEA 2000 backbone cable to it (all these pieces come with the NRX300)
The difficult piece: routing the backbone cable to the swim platform. The key here is that with some patience and a long bar (I used the aluminum telescopic bar from the boat cover) You can run the cable from the dashboard all the way to the transom without disassembling anything. I started by inserting the bar form the cooler space and push it all the way up to the console, it stayed there because there are a bunch of cable harnesses to hold it. Once that was there, I went to into the bow compartment on the starboard side and tape the NMEA 2K backbone cable to the bar and used it to fish the cable all the way to the transom.
The nerve wracking piece: Pick the location, you can see what mine look like in the pictures and tape the template for drilling the main hole and the 4 holes for the screws. My boat was 2 months old, so I measured it a few times. The main hole was drilled with the 2in hole saw and the screws required a bigger bit than the 3/32 suggested on the instructions or your gelcoat holes will not look as professional. You can put the screws in to see how tight they are and go to the next size drill bit.
I didn't use any sealant. I wanted to be able to replace the remote without damaging the finish if needed. I used the rubber gasket that come with the remote and it makes a very good seal all around. Once your holes are done, drop the remote cable in and connected to the backbone cable. You don't need power at all, nut you need some ty wraps to make it look neat all the way.
Now enjoy your music without carrying your phone in the sun and the ocean. The quality of the screen is impressive and it also comes with a 3 year warranty!
Regards,
Dimitri
Attachments:
