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Post by jimmyjet on Oct 31, 2020 0:23:14 GMT -5
I’ve never owned a boat that couldn’t be stored inside during the Winter months before buying my 360 Commodore. Looking for info on what other 360 owners are using for bilge heat. My boat resides in a covered slip with available shore power in a North Georgia lake. I’ve been looking at Xtreme and Twin Hornet heaters but am wondering if one unit (700W or 1000W) would be adequate or if using two units of say 400W would provide more even/reliable temperature control. I seem to recall seeing only one heater in the bilge of boats I looked at during the buying process (30ft-35ft).
My Commodore also has two, what appears to be thermostat control devices hanging in the bilge from what was previously installed and removed prior to my purchase. The owner I bought the boat from this past March had drained the water system and "sort of" winterized the boat...but my desire is for using the boat through the Winter so don’t really want to drain anything.
I also have canvas covers for the bilge vents that are snapped in place while at the dock. I expect that will aid somewhat in preventing heat loss.
Anyone?....Buehler?
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Post by tc33obx on Nov 1, 2020 11:14:21 GMT -5
I've used electric OilHeaters the ones that look like old school radiators in the bilge on my 4460 in March and November when I had that boat and typically kept it in the water during those months. It kept the engine room area typically in the 40s unless it was seriously cold outside. It never got cold enough in there to freeze anything when it was running. The ones I've used have thermostats to set the temp you'd like, so I'd get them so they aren't heating when they don't need to. My 4460 was a 14 foot beam and I had two big D6 diesels in the engine room along with room for the IPS units so it was a big area. I would think one would also work for you if you could find a place to let it stand.
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Post by gofast24 on Nov 1, 2020 11:32:16 GMT -5
If your wet docked all winter and in Lake Lanier (you don't indicate where your wet docked, secret?) Dont use any home type heaters, oil filled, electric resistance type etc! You should/must use a USCG approved ignition proof engine room heater that the switching mechanism is protected from causing a spark when energizing/de energizing, spark from electrical contacts opening/closing could cause a engine room explosion! . If you have shore power (?) you can get a 400-600 watt USCG certified engine room heater that you can just either hard wire into your 120 VAC shore power or plug into a 120 VAC outlet with the power cord that comes with some types of heater. There is a 400 watt plug in electric heater ona Amazon for about $200 or so. FYI, we have a 800 watt heater hard wired into the boats 120 VAC system that keeps engine room temp automatically above 40 F.
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Post by tc33obx on Nov 2, 2020 14:15:38 GMT -5
Intersting GoFast, I had a Diesel, never had any issues like that with the heaters I've used. I guess with a Gas boat, you would need to be careful. Great suggestions and thanks for sharing.
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Post by jimmyjet on Nov 2, 2020 18:44:14 GMT -5
If your wet docked all winter and in Lake Lanier (you don't indicate where your wet docked, secret?) Dont use any home type heaters, oil filled, electric resistance type etc! You should/must use a USCG approved ignition proof engine room heater that the switching mechanism is protected from causing a spark when energizing/de energizing, spark from electrical contacts opening/closing could cause a engine room explosion! . If you have shore power (?) you can get a 400-600 watt USCG certified engine room heater that you can just either hard wire into your 120 VAC shore power or plug into a 120 VAC outlet with the power cord that comes with some types of heater. There is a 400 watt plug in electric heater ona Amazon for about $200 or so. FYI, we have a 800 watt heater hard wired into the boats 120 VAC system that keeps engine room temp automatically above 40 F. Thanks for the input on the subject GoFast...I'm still trying to get all this figured out. (And yes, I'm in a slip on Allatoona) I have been looking online at both "TWIN HORNET" and "Xtreme" bilge heaters and as I said was a bit uncertain as to whether one 800-1000W heater would suffice or if using two smaller 400W heaters on either side of the engine room would lend to more even distribution of heat....(if that mattered). Also, though the temptation can be strong for "cheaping out" on this project with just putting a space heater or lightbulb in the area, I owe it to my neighbors on the dock to consider and respect both their investment and their safety. |
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Post by gofast24 on Nov 3, 2020 11:11:30 GMT -5
TC33OBX, yes with diesel a different story but would still opt for USCG approved ignition proof heater(s). Jimmy jet, thanks for location, your conditions are about the same as our Lanier docked situation, not often gets below freezing but when it does you need to consider a automatic engine room heater. The few $ for heater and shore power costs well worth not having to worry about raw water side in engine room freezing and causing a crack/in that side of your cooling system! Also recomend you buy 2X quarts of Sta-Bil fuel conditioner/stabilizer and pour into both fuel tanks (after doing this run both propulsion engines and gen set for 10 minutes or so) . Will help Keep fuel (assume gasoline) from gumming up over the few month of not using th vessel!
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Post by gofast24 on Nov 12, 2020 11:37:24 GMT -5
Also, in a month or so turn off fresh water (potable) DC powered pump, then turn on all faucets/showers, ice makers, anchor wash down hose, aft swim platform hose and keep open/drain over winter. If your on shore power you should set HVAC systems(s) to heat mode and as low as you can set thermostat (50F in our case) to keep the rest of the cabin water lines from freezing. This event of around 20F wount happen often but you should take precautions to keep any lines from anywhere from freezing and busting open! Most important is have a USCG approved automatic electric engine room heater!
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Post by jimmyjet on Nov 12, 2020 21:09:38 GMT -5
Also, in a month or so turn off fresh water (potable) DC powered pump, then turn on all faucets/showers, ice makers, anchor wash down hose, aft swim platform hose and keep open/drain over winter. If your on shore power you should set HVAC systems(s) to heat mode and as low as you can set thermostat (50F in our case) to keep the rest of the cabin water lines from freezing. This event of around 20F wount happen often but you should take precautions to keep any lines from anywhere from freezing and busting open! Most important is have a USCG approved automatic electric engine room heater! Just purchased and received (a couple days ago) a new 1000W Dual Hornet bilge heater and started working on the install this afternoon. Also bought a couple small ceramic space heaters that I was thinking I would place one in the aft cabin leaving the access door open to the utility area behind the fridge so the pressure tank and water lines would stay above freezing and place another in the galley while leaving the cabinet doors open in the galley and head... |
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Post by Mypleasure on Nov 13, 2020 11:22:37 GMT -5
Also, in a month or so turn off fresh water (potable) DC powered pump, then turn on all faucets/showers, ice makers, anchor wash down hose, aft swim platform hose and keep open/drain over winter. If your on shore power you should set HVAC systems(s) to heat mode and as low as you can set thermostat (50F in our case) to keep the rest of the cabin water lines from freezing. This event of around 20F wount happen often but you should take precautions to keep any lines from anywhere from freezing and busting open! Most important is have a USCG approved automatic electric engine room heater! Just purchased and received (a couple days ago) a new 1000W Dual Hornet bilge heater and started working on the install this afternoon. Also bought a couple small ceramic space heaters that I was thinking I would place one in the aft cabin leaving the access door open to the utility area behind the fridge so the pressure tank and water lines would stay above freezing and place another in the galley while leaving the cabinet doors open in the galley and head... Jimmy, I do exactly what you have planned.....bought my 3760 in 07 and have never had a problem....in fact the ceramic heaters in the cabin have even kept the engine compartment a little tempered.....I bought a little electronic thermometer with a humidity indicator ....I keep the boat at 65 and it holds the humidity around 50%.....coats, clothing and bedding to not get smelly. Ive been known for going to the boat in the winter for a nice football game and nap.....its just right....of course the power bill for my moorage is included weather I use it or not.....I'm limited to 10 amps and don't quite reach that!! |
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Post by jimmyjet on Nov 15, 2020 21:30:28 GMT -5
Just purchased and received (a couple days ago) a new 1000W Dual Hornet bilge heater and started working on the install this afternoon. Also bought a couple small ceramic space heaters that I was thinking I would place one in the aft cabin leaving the access door open to the utility area behind the fridge so the pressure tank and water lines would stay above freezing and place another in the galley while leaving the cabinet doors open in the galley and head... Jimmy, I do exactly what you have planned.....bought my 3760 in 07 and have never had a problem....in fact the ceramic heaters in the cabin have even kept the engine compartment a little tempered.....I bought a little electronic thermometer with a humidity indicator ....I keep the boat at 65 and it holds the humidity around 50%.....coats, clothing and bedding to not get smelly. Ive been known for going to the boat in the winter for a nice football game and nap.....its just right....of course the power bill for my moorage is included weather I use it or not.....I'm limited to 10 amps and don't quite reach that!! Thanks Rick - JJ |
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Post by gofast24 on Nov 16, 2020 10:22:27 GMT -5
Just purchased and received (a couple days ago) a new 1000W Dual Hornet bilge heater and started working on the install this afternoon. Also bought a couple small ceramic space heaters that I was thinking I would place one in the aft cabin leaving the access door open to the utility area behind the fridge so the pressure tank and water lines would stay above freezing and place another in the galley while leaving the cabinet doors open in the galley and head... Jimmy, I do exactly what you have planned.....bought my 3760 in 07 and have never had a problem....in fact the ceramic heaters in the cabin have even kept the engine compartment a little tempered.....I bought a little electronic thermometer with a humidity indicator ....I keep the boat at 65 and it holds the humidity around 50%.....coats, clothing and bedding to not get smelly. Ive been known for going to the boat in the winter for a nice football game and nap.....its just right....of course the power bill for my moorage is included weather I use it or not.....I'm limited to 10 amps and don't quite reach that!! unfortunately our monthly covered dock fee doesn't include electric service. If it was , everyone at Lake Lanier (Holiday Marina) would leave there HVAC on all year round? We have a metered connection to our boat, about $0.10 / kw/hr, a few cents above our home rate. .Actually about 30% less costly to set HVAC heat pump mode to hold about 50F in cabin vs. a couple of electric resistance heaters with not very accurate temperature controls and integral temp switches opening/ closing and creating small sparks while doing that (can be gas fumes in the cabin as well as engine room ? ? Just my thoughts  |
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Post by jimmyjet on Nov 18, 2020 13:42:03 GMT -5
Jimmy, I do exactly what you have planned.....bought my 3760 in 07 and have never had a problem....in fact the ceramic heaters in the cabin have even kept the engine compartment a little tempered.....I bought a little electronic thermometer with a humidity indicator ....I keep the boat at 65 and it holds the humidity around 50%.....coats, clothing and bedding to not get smelly. Ive been known for going to the boat in the winter for a nice football game and nap.....its just right....of course the power bill for my moorage is included weather I use it or not.....I'm limited to 10 amps and don't quite reach that!! unfortunately our monthly covered dock fee doesn't include electric service. If it was , everyone at Lake Lanier (Holiday Marina) would leave there HVAC on all year round? We have a metered connection to our boat, about $0.10 / kw/hr, a few cents above our home rate. .Actually about 30% less costly to set HVAC heat pump mode to hold about 50F in cabin vs. a couple of electric resistance heaters with not very accurate temperature controls and integral temp switches opening/ closing and creating small sparks while doing that (can be gas fumes in the cabin as well as engine room ? ? Just my thoughts I get that. We also have to pay for the electric used on the meter at our marina each month. But it would certainly seem a LOT cheaper to pay $10-$20 per month for keeping a couple heaters going in the cabin than the cost and hassle of trying to get someone to replace broken pipes, etc.... |
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Post by gofast24 on Nov 19, 2020 10:55:58 GMT -5
Yes, but still think turning on one of two (?) HAVAC systems to heat mode (around 50F) will b a lot less costly than electric resistance heaters and probably they wont circulate much air throughout cabin area? Especially in heads!
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Post by jimmyjet on Apr 7, 2021 16:59:11 GMT -5
End of cold season follow up on this thread. The 1000W Dual Hornet bilge heater worked well. I placed a small battery operated digital temp indicator in the bilge and also in the cabin that recorded the hi & low temp over the past 24 hours and checked on the boat with some degree of regularity when the weather was below freezing. The bilge temp stayed pretty consistent between 42 and 46 degrees which is the internal temp control settings of the Dual Hornet bilge heater thermostat. I placed a $20 ceramic heater in the area between the galley and head, leaving the cabinet doors open on the sink and vanity. The cheap ceramic heater was not quite as precise for temp control so the hi/low on the thermometer was about 55-68 degrees but I found that acceptable for keeping anything from freezing and the electric bill on the dock was under $20 per month.
Hope this helps someone in the future that might be looking for information of this sort....
JJ
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